Runway Shows

Miu Miu Spring 2020

By Laia | 02/10/2019

Miu Miu SS20

About the Miu Miu Spring 2020 collection: Creative freedom, creative expression, the feel of the hand, an accidental beauty. The Miu Miu Spring/Summer 2020 collection is a composition, a proposal of fashion as a process, and a dialogue. The dialogue is simultaneously between the wearer and her clothes, and in turn between their disparate elements, the paradoxical combination of the intentional and the impromptu, the serious and the playful.

There is a provocation in the juxtaposition of unfamiliar concepts, unlikely couplings. Extremes of simplicity and complexity, the precious and the raw, minimal versus maximal, are combined at liberty. A new aesthetic is found through the undone, through the free. Garments are presented as canvasses – literal and metaphorical, seemingly captured in the midst of the creative exercise, at a pause in action. Some become bases for improvised decoration, applications of broken volant frills and gathers, collaged, in a state of incompletion; others are created from artist’s toile, freely hand-painted with abstract impressions of florals, unplanned, a decorative approach also translated to handbags; while mismatching buttons, like jewels, become points of emphasis.

Dresses are draped directly on the form, or feature free-worked panels of textile, knotted and tied to animate and disrupt their fabric, some decorated with simplistic flowers created from self-fabric application. Everyday or conventional materials are transferred into a luxury sphere: cotton, canvas, wool voile, bijoux combined with rustic and industrial elements for necklaces and accessories.

In contrast with the innocence and directness of these ideas, shapes are sophisticated. Silhouettes are severe, unadorned and pure, drawing on uniform and workwear references – pinafores, aprons, sleeveless cocoon coats, precisely tailored. Their austerity permits extravagance on the surface, weighting these two diametric extremes, an inherent attraction of opposites.

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Brittany Xavier on her way to the Miu Miu SS20 show in Paris. September 2019. (Photo via Instagram)
She’s wearing a floral virgin wool sweater available at MYTHERESA + the Miu Miu Solitaire crystal-embellished leather camera bag available at NET-A-PORTER