Fashion Weeks

Watch Moschino Spring Summer 2016 fashion show, and shop the collection!

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Moschino’s Spring ’16 collection exemplifies Jeremy Scott’s bold approach to design and is inspired by world of building construction.

Nicole Phelps, Nobody, but nobody is having more fun than Jeremy Scott at Moschino. Season by season, the ideas get zanier, but the productions just keep getting bigger. And why not, when his clothes and accessories are selling so well? True to silly form, tonight’s theme was car-wash couture. Traffic cones, barricades, and a genuine car wash that sprayed bubbles instead of water were installed on the runway. “No Parking, Couture Zone,” one sign read; another: “Dangerous Couture Ahead.” Also true to form, this was not a show about subtext. But if it was all out there on the waxed and polished surface, that doesn’t mean it wasn’t smart. Take the full-skirted trench coat with a warning sign on the back—“Open Trench,” it read—or the little black dress with the iconic red octagon on the chest printed “Shop,” not “Stop.” In a he-thinks-of-everything moment, Scott had none other than Lapo Elkann, international playboy and heir to the Fiat automobile fortune, in the front row.

The accessories served up one visual pun after another. None other than Stephen Jones, milliner to fashion royals and royal royals, did the veiled hard hats and traffic cone chapeaux. There were toolbox and lunch-box bags, tail-fin sunglasses, and caution-tape sandals. As for the clothes, they were the tony uptown answer to last season’s below-14th-Street streetwear. Chanel-style skirt suits came in flashy neons with flashier reflective-tape edging; others had Cristóbal Balenciaga–worthy volumes. Scott played fast and loose with Chanel-isms, most literally and perhaps dangerously with a print of interlocking C clamps. A pair of petticoated satin party dresses with taillights lifted off a ’57 Chevy looked like a subtler (if you can call it that) reference to Thierry Mugler’s iconic corset.

An extended evening section that riffed on the rotating brushes of drive-through car washes was capped off by a long column dress with a neon sign slung over one shoulder. Scott’s got fans just crazy enough to take it for a spin IRL.

Jessica Iredale, WWD: Entering a fashion show — especially one with a cult following, held at 8 p.m., which positions it as party time, in a pitch-black tent — is a hazard. There are traffic jams, detours, reserved parking (“you’re in my seat”), roadwork on the runway and general obstacles in every direction. In the interest of the quick-burn irony that now defines Moschino under Jeremy Scott, he made the veritable construction zone of the runway into a literal set, strewing it with an orange-and-white mess of traffic cones, barriers and signs warning of “Dangerous Couture Ahead.” So many people tripped over the heavy-duty cable protectors on the floor on the way to their seats, it was difficult to tell if it was part of the set or a legitimate safety measure.

The ruse allowed Scott to double down on the punchlines, playing on the notion of roadwork and construction, as in traditional couture garment-making. There were classic suits fashioned from what looked like safety reflectors in blazing orange and yellow; hats and bags that were essentially wearable traffic cones; hard hats, toolbox bags; over-the-knee boots inspired by traffic cones; and all manner of road signs made into wearable jokes: “Slippery When Wet” read one T-shirt dress, while a swimsuit was emblazoned with a red, circle-and-slash swimsuit prohibited sign on it. A bunch of looks reflected the grand silhouettes of Fifties and Sixties couture with full skirts, an opera jacket, etc. The clothes were garish as a highway pile up, just the way Scott and his devotees, well-represented in the crowd, like them.

Scott’s runway discourages deep thoughts. But just as one began to wonder if the jokes were wearing thin, three faux car washes, complete with fluffy rotating brushes and bubble machines, fired up on the runway, through which processed the first finale look: a jacket and skirt bearing the words “Brand,” “New” and “Look” — emphasis on “brand,” a term that defines a lot about the state of affairs at Moschino and fashion at large. Lest things get too deep, what followed was a rainbow of the dress equivalents of feather dusters and fringed carwash brushes. The sight of girls dressed to buff a car scrubbed any reflective inclinations right out of your head.


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