Runway Shows

Marc Jacobs Spring 2019

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Nicole Phelps on Marc Jacobs SS19: «Breaking with recent tradition, the Marc Jacobs show started late, as in nearly an hour and a half late. Something about a truck of clothes stuck in traffic . The experience took us olds in the crowd back to September 2007, when Jacobs’s 9:00 p.m. show didn’t go off until 11. That season, Suzy Menkes took Jacobs to task in the International Herald Tribune; this season, the Brits beat hasty retreats to waiting Ubers a good 45 minutes before the first model hit the runway, to catch flights back to London. Eleven years on, fashion feels like a different business—less fun and more serious.

The takeaway from New York’s Spring 2019 shows is a tale of the haves and the have-nots. On one side are the big guys, with budgets to rival their European counterparts but with not much authentic or essential to say. On the other are the scrappy kids, who are idea rich but mostly resource poor. In between, mid-career designers are getting squeezed: downsizing, opting out of shows, or dropping off the calendar entirely.»

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Bridget Foley on Marc Jacobs SS19: «This is not the lede. It’s the prologue: The wait was terrible. Whatever caused the Marc Jacobs show to start an hour-and-a-half late shouldn’t have happened. Jacobs and his staff have been at this a while; they know what it takes to develop a collection, and they should have safeguards in place to prevent this issue, which Jacobs had obsessively avoided for years with his on-the-button starts. Once he realized that the streak would end here, he should have determined a realistic ETA and then had his guests informed with as much notice as possible. It would have tempered at least some of the audience irritation. Prologue over.

Here’s the lede: A tour de force. Pure, unrelenting, magical Fashion that ranged from want-it-right-now to full-on fantasy. That’s how Jacobs likes his fashion — major. And he gives not a whit for the casualization frenzy. “I really don’t care if it’s new or old or modern or casual or dressy or whatever,” Jacobs said during a preview. “I think there are plenty of people dressing women to go to Starbucks. It’s not of interest to me. If you’re going to get dressed up, get dressed up. If you’re going to not get dressed, wear your sweats to go to Starbucks.”

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