Demna Gvasalia is one of the hottest names in fashion right now and his Balenciaga Fall 2016 debut was promising to say the least, as he brought to the collection both historical curiosity and a strong sense of self. His first priority was to understand the methodology of Cristóbal (Balenciaga), his work around the body, and how to do it today. And he sought to replicate that sense of forward movement around shoulders (rounded and curved) and hips (padded): he rooted his premise for Balenciaga in cut and construction (applying architectural shapes and volumes to coats and jackets). At the same time, he held fast to his urban-friendly Vetements approach with practical garments upgraded to boiling-point desirability, boosting the ordinary till it becomes extraordinary, something that embodies Gvasalia’s quirky way of mashing up high and low. Realistic, useful bad-weather outerwear (the trench coat, the biker, the aviator, the denim jacket and the parka) and extreme silhouettes that look fresh and new.