Alberta Ferretti Spring 2019
Nicole Phelps on Alberta Ferretti Spring 2019: «There was a time not that long ago when seeing jean jackets and chinos on an Alberta Ferretti runway—let alone utility miniskirts—would’ve been inconceivable. After all, Ferretti is Milan’s reigning frock queen. But matriarch or not, the designer has set her sights on the youth vote. And not with what young women might wear on the red carpet, but with what Gigi Hadid, Kendall Jenner, and the rest of her supermodel cast would choose for their off-duty lives (though that’s a nebulous categorization in the age of Instagram). Pieces like slouched-on denim jackets, boxy overalls, T-shirts, lacy camis, and slip dresses were all rendered in a palette of soft pastels.
What made the collection Ferretti were its delicate materials, like cotton eyelet, crochet, and pointelle knit. The eyelet in particular was pretty, and her exuberant use of it on, say, the ruffles of Edie Campbell’s show-opening top, was winning. The risk with this reset is veering into other designers’ territories; Isabel Marant and Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, who is indeed part of the Aeffe family, serve this group well. Besides: Surely there are already enough jean jackets in the world.
Can a designer reinvent herself after 35 years in business? Will the industry let her? Signora Ferretti is game to try. Naturally, she was at her most persuasive handling the fancier fare. A pair of billowing striped chiffon caftan-style dresses caught the eye of a front row stylist whose opinion matters. By the end, Ferretti lost some of her conviction. The collection didn’t need the addendum of black looks, which were in most cases redos of previous exits. Ferretti said she likes black for its mystery (and probably also for its red carpet user-friendliness). But there was charm enough in her sweet pastels.»
(For more go to Vogue.com)