Runway Shows

Gucci Fall 2024

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Gucci Fall 2024 by Sabato de Sarno.
(Collage by laiamagazine)

Over the past couple of weeks, Sabato De Sarno’s debut Gucci collection has started shipping to stores and making its way out into the world. During a meeting at the brand’s headquarters earlier this week, he reported seeing a woman at a gallery wearing the lime green coat embellished with crystal fringes from last season, the one with a 27,000-euro price tag. He said he called his press team to ask if it had been loaned to her, only to learn from them that she had bought it. “I love my collection,” he said, “but to see other people love it makes me happy.”

De Sarno laid out his short, sexy vision for his new Gucci last September, eschewing the eccentricity of its recent past for a more streamlined look, rooted in what he called “wardrobe” essentials. On the soundtrack today, Did Virgo and Morgan K sang about a “reset,” but if that suggested he was going to change tack, De Sarno set the record straight: “It’s just a song I like; I used to dance to it.”

At that preview, he said he set himself a sort of challenge this time: to combine “what I hate with what I love to make something new.” So his opening coats were stitched from waist to hem with dégradé paillettes (he dislikes embroidery), and both a narrow bustier dress and a hip-grazing tunic were cut from double-face wool cashmere in a shade of green his studio team translated as “rotten” (a color not quite as agreeable as Rosso Ancora). The 1970s-ish, vaguely Prada-esque graphic printed on slip dresses and woven as a jacquard on a caban was a heron, if you looked closely enough.

In the end, the “subversive gestures” that the press notes promised were not too much in evidence. This was a building collection, working off the framework established in round one. The opening look was a shorts suit, the jacket neatly tailored and buttoned to the neck, with a thin belt punctuating the waist and over-the-knee riding boots rising nearly to the shorts’ hems—minimal in the same general vein as De Sarno’s debut. Last season’s mini slips were refashioned in midi lengths, worn with high-rise double-G briefs underneath. An exquisite long-sleeve dress in black lace had the same willowy profile. And the slingback platforms were modeled on the loafers that are popular items from De Sarno’s launch collection.

“I don’t have a theme—ever,” he said. “My theme is the clothes.” There’s a lingering question: Is that enough at a brand as big as Gucci? De Sarno is a fine technician. The mustard peacoat at the end of the show had a covered placket in back, which could be buttoned all the way up to the collar “to embrace your body.” But moving forward, his job will be to think bigger, in all senses. It could start simple. I’m curious, for instance, about what his Gucci pants look like.

Text: Nicole Phelps via VOGUE.COM

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More looks from the Gucci Fall 2024 runway shown held in Milan during FW24 Fashion Week.
(Collage by laiamagazine)

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Veronika Heilbrunner at the Gucci Fall 2024 Runway Show held in Milan during FW24 Fashion Week. She’s carrying the Gucci Jackie small shoulder bag in Rosso Ancora patent leather.
* The new Gucci Jackie is crafted from fine leather which highlights the craftsmanship, crescent shape, and sleek silhouette of the House’s iconic shoulder bag. Light gold-toned hardware, leather trim, and an additional strap featuring the green and red Web gives this Gucci Jackie small shoulder bag in Gucci Rosso Ancora leather, the signature red hue of the House, further styling options.
+ men’s Horsebit 1953 loafer in brown leather.
* Modern interpretations of archival symbols both pay tribute to Gucci’s heritage while looking towards the future. This pair of brown leather loafers reimagines the emblematic Horsebit loafer with a low heel. The gold-toned detail is a direct link to the House’s beginnings in the world of sports and leisure.
(Photo via @veronikaheilbrunner)

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Xenia Adonts is wearing a GG embossed mini dress from the SS24 collection. The piece is part of Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection, offering a modern take on the House’s well-known codes and symbols. This mini dress recalls the typical 60s style thanks to the A-line silhouette and a scoop neck design, while the black GG embossed shiny leather adds a touch of modernity.
+ the Gucci Signoria slingback pump.
(Photo via @xeniaadonts)

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Leia Sfez is wearing a shiny leather skirt
* The piece is part of Sabato De Sarno’s debut collection, offering a modern take on the House’s well-known codes and symbols. Designed with a low waist and front-and-back slits, this skirt combines elegance with a hint of allure. Crafted from sky blue shiny leather, this piece has a mid-length and is unlined.
+ the GG Soft small top handle bag.
(Photo via @leiasfez)

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With five attitudes and one collection, David Sims’ iconic lens captures the Gucci Ancora campaign featuring Ana, Violet, Jiahui, Fadia, and Nyajuok portraying Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s vision for the Gucci wardrobe.
#GucciAncora #GucciSS24 #GucciJackieNotte #GucciSignoria

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