Dior Haute Couture Fall 2015
Bosch’s The Garden of Earthly Delights, a painting from the Flemish school housed at the Museo del Prado in Madrid with which Raf Simon’s long been fascinated, was the starting point for taking a narratively dense canvas into the lightest of clothes, contrasting angelic, virginal embroidered white silk chiffon gowns with looks that spoke much more of the pleasures of the flesh, namely a series of embroidered and printed dresses, provocatively revealing an expanse of naked skin. “For many years I wanted to do something with it but I never really knew, I think, how to deal with it in terms of not making it heavily weighted with history and the like” he said. Inspired by Bosch, the models conveyed their angelic side and their sexual side.
Simons revisited many of his ideas (even the ones he explored at Jil Sander), such as the floating tulip skirts, showing that although he is a master of new fabrics and is attracted by youth culture his Dior aesthetic is hugely influenced by the historical. Tight-waisted coats flared into wide New Look skirts; evening gowns were worn almost as tabards but open at the side, modesty preserved by gold links; the prints were soft like the work of Impressionist painters; and often a jacquard knit tank top was added to give a clever unexpected twist, at other times a soft cage of a jewelled gilet.